Fabric Guide

Silk Crepe de Chine

12–16mm momme

Silk Crepe de Chine silk scarf

Crepe de chine is a lightweight silk made by twisting some fibres clockwise and others counterclockwise, then weaving them in a plain weave. It is the twist — not the weave — that gives the fabric its distinctive pebbly look and soft hand, and both sides look and feel the same. Many of our scarves are made in crepe de chine for its matte, elegant drape.

Crepe de Chine for Soft Matte Drape

Crepe de chine suits buyers looking for a soft, lightly pebbled hand rather than a high-gloss surface. Its matte appearance is useful for understated fashion collections, museum products and everyday scarves where the artwork should feel refined instead of reflective. The fabric has enough drape for neck styling while remaining easier to handle than very sheer silks. During sampling, compare the colour density in large solid areas, fine lines and border details, then confirm the finished size after hemming. It is also worth specifying whether the scarf will be folded, rolled or packed flat for shipment.

Customise in Silk Crepe de Chine

Crepe de chine on a printed scarf

Crepe de chine gets its character from twist rather than weave. Some yarns are twisted clockwise and others counterclockwise before being woven in a plain weave, and it is that opposition that produces the fine pebbled surface — not a pattern in the cloth. The result is matte, even, and identical on both faces.

For a printed scarf that evenness is the point. Colour sits on the surface without being amplified or distorted by sheen, so what you approve on the proof is close to what the finished scarf shows. Artwork with fine line work, small type and delicate detail is easier to judge on a matte cloth than on a satin face.

It is also the most forgiving of the lighter silks to handle and to wear. The scarf drapes well at the neck, ties without slipping, and does not demand the careful folding that a glossy weave does.

Specification

The table below is what a quotation is built from. Fixing these lines before you compare supplier quotes is what makes two quotes comparable.

SpecificationThis fabricWhat it changes
Momme12–16mmMomme is weight. More weight means more raw silk in the same scarf, so it moves the unit cost more than any other single line.
PrintingDigital printing · screen printingThe matte surface reproduces fine detail and small type more faithfully than a glossy weave. Very fine light-toned lines are the main thing to check at final size, because the pebbled surface scatters a little light.
Edge finishHand rolled and hand stitched · machine hemA hand-rolled edge sits flat and even on crepe de chine. Both faces are the same, so the hem can be seen from either side without a mismatch.
Format90×90cm · 53×53cm · 36×36cm · neck scarf · bandana · pocket squareBoth the 90×90cm square and the smaller formats work well. The fabric is light enough for a bandana or pocket square and substantial enough for a neck scarf.
PackingIndividual bag · branded box · carton markPacking is quoted as its own line so that it does not disappear inside the unit price.

How crepe de chine compares

WeaveMommeSurfaceChoose it when
Crepe de chine12–16Matte, fine pebble, identical both facesThe print should read exactly as approved, and both sides will be seen.
Charmeuse16–22Glossy face, matte backThe scarf should catch light and the reverse does not matter.
Silk twill14–19Fine diagonal rib, subtle sheenThe cloth should add body and a quiet sheen behind the design.

Buyer questions

Why is crepe de chine matte when charmeuse is glossy?

Because of the yarn, not the weave. Crepe de chine is woven from alternately twisted yarns in a plain weave, which gives a pebbled matte surface. Charmeuse is a satin weave, which floats the warp threads across the face and produces the gloss.

Are both sides of a crepe de chine scarf the same?

Yes. Both faces look and feel the same, which is why it suits neck scarves and any format where the reverse will be visible in wear.

Does crepe de chine hold a knot?

Yes, and better than a glossy satin weave, because the pebbled surface gives a little friction. It ties and stays tied without needing a pin or a double knot.

Which colours work best on crepe de chine?

The matte surface favours muted and mid-tone colour, and it handles fine tonal work well. Very bright saturated colour reads with more force on a glossy weave, so if that is the look you want, charmeuse is the better choice.

Minimum order, artwork and lead times

Minimum order is 100 pieces per design. A programme using several designs is quoted as several minimums, because each one is printed and finished separately.

You send whatever you have — artwork, a logo file, a reference, a brand guide, or an idea. We set the repeat, the layout and the hem allowance for your chosen format in crepe de chine, and send a digital proof. Nothing is printed until you approve it. Artwork development is part of the project rather than a separate charge.

A physical sample is then printed and finished on the fabric you have chosen, and bulk production follows the approved sample. Bulk runs about 3 weeks after approval.

  • What to send us: artwork or a logo file, the format, the quantity, and the fabric weight you want.
  • What we send back: a digital proof, then a physical sample on your chosen fabric and edge finish.
  • What we need before bulk: artwork approval, sample approval, and the packing method.
  • What travels with the order: photographs of the finished scarves before they ship.
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